The idea of a potential family trip to Kashmir pitched by my dad brought about very skeptical reactions from my mom and myself because of the series of attacks not so long ago. A little back story that only fueled this reaction is that we were sent to go to Sri Lanka this May and a few days after we booked our tickets the bombings in Sri Lanka shook the world. None the less with a little persuasion we packed our bags and got ready to embark on what we hoped would be a peaceful and relaxing vacation. An added bonus that my mom dropped on us was that we were to spend 3 days in Shimla in one of the hotels one of her former students owned. I for one, couldn’t wait to go on this holiday with my family.
So we flew to Kashmir on the morning of the 20th of May. We landed in Srinagar airport in the late afternoon. The security at this airport was unlike anything I had ever seen before. We weren’t allowed to open the windows at all and no pictures until you exit the airport premises. The military presence in the state is remarkable. There are jawans stationed at every other corner. The houses here are small and quaint. I have yet to see a residential building that is more than two stories high.
The 45 odd minute drive to the Taj Dal View, where we were staying was one of the most scenic drives I have ever been on. Upon reaching the hotel we were welcomed with cups of hot Kehwa tea which is indigenous to Kashmir. The Kehwa tea is brewed with saffron fronds, honey and an assortment of dry fruits usually almonds. This tea, although a specialty, is served differently everywhere. We relaxed in this beautifully designed hotel that overlooks the Dal lake on one side and a Kashmiri village on the other, after a long day of traveling.
The following morning, we visited the Dachigam National Park, which was set up by Raja Hari Singh. Dachigam in Kashmiri literally translates to ‘ten villages’ probably in memory of the ten villages that were relocated from inside the park at the time of its formation. This National Park is not open to the public. In order to enter the park, you need to obtain permission from the wildlife head of the park. The National Park is the home of a number of animal species like leopards, black and brown bears as well as many bird species. It also has its own trout farm where they breed trout for meat and fish.
Next, we visited 3 Mughal Gardens: Nishant, Shalimar and Chashma Shahi. These gardens are adorned with gorgeous roses in about different colors. Even if you can’t make it to all three, I suggest you at least make it visit one of them, I promise it’ll be worth it. You could even have a picnic there. The local market outside Nishant Garden is good for buying souvenirs as well as for grabbing a quick bite to eat. For lunch, we ate at a restaurant not too far from Shalimar Gardens called ‘Sunset Boulevard’. We enjoyed the traditional ‘Wazwan’ cuisine, which typically consists of 15 – 20 dishes and is generally served at weddings and other functions. You don’t necessarily need to order all of the 15 or 20 dishes, you can even order just 3 or 4 of them. We then went to a carpet factory where we learned the art of making silk hand-knotted carpets.
Finally, we went for a Shikaar ride on the Dal lake. The ride lasts for a minimum of 90 minutes, which for me was a bit of a stretch. You’ll also have vendors coming to sell you their products right from jewellery to fruits in their boats. They’ll even take you past the houseboats and finally through a market entirely built on stilts in the middle of the lake before your ride ends. Later that evening, we retired to our rooms and ordered in before passing out from fatigue.
The next morning, while the fog had not yet lifted we departed for Gulmarg. Situated 60 kilometers from Srinagar, Gulmarg is known for its snow sports. In order to get to the top, you need to take the cable car or ‘Gondola’. Phase 1 of the ride drops you off halfway up the mountain and phase 2 takes you right up to the top. Once you get off at phase 1, you can take a horse ride to reach the actual snow. You can go skiing, motorbiking or sledding at both points. At the bottom of the mountain, where the cable car ride begins, there a plenty of small dhabas where you can get really yummy food.
On our way back, we stopped at a local market to buy some dry fruits and cherries, before heading back to the hotel for the night. We spent our last two days in Kashmir holed up in our cozy rooms as it was chucking it down outside, except for a short run to buy souvenirs before we packed our bags to leave for Shimla at dawn the next morning.
This part of our vacation was a beautiful adventure that I think everyone should experience at least once in a lifetime. I learned so much about the culture of this beautiful place and it gave me memories that I will remember forever.
Xoxo Erica